Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week is long over and by now the critics are soaking their feet, but some of their biggest reviews are just now hitting newsstands. Today Scorecard tallies the votes for the last round of New York shows: Calvin Klein, Chado Ralph Rucci, Isaac Mizrahi, Ralph Lauren, L’Wren Scott,Tommy Hilfiger, Vera Wang and Zac Posen. It seems Zac Posen’s five-piano circus had none too many fans; in the less-is-more camp, Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa and Vera Wang gave the weary critics a welcome jolt of modernism. Coming soon: Scorecard goes to Italy, to follow the shows in Milan.
Calvin Klein
Designer: Francisco Costa
Date and Location: Thursday, Feb. 19, 205 West 39th Street
Photos: slide show
- “The well-judged collection from the designer Francisco Costa melded strict geometry — from winged sleeves through wavy, asymmetric hemlines to cut-out shoe heels — with fascinating fabrics” (The International Herald Tribune)
- “This collection — one of Mr. Costa’s finest since he took over women’s design at Calvin Klein — accomplishes many things. It opens the conversation more aggressively to fabrics made by new processes. . . . It shows how potent and continually enriching the minimalist template first laid down by designers like Jil Sander and Yohji Yamamoto is. And it provides — or should provide — Mr. Costa with a road map for his future work at Calvin Klein.” (The New York Times)
- “These were rigorous, defined, precise clothes, but they were also sexy. Nicely done.” (style.com)
- “there’s much to be said for [Costa's] determined, confident approach — these are clothes for women of presence” (WWD)
Backstage Beauty | Retro Modern Glamour at L’Wren Scott
Photos by Lazzaro D’Alessandro Aaron De Mey backstage at the L’Wren Scott fall show.“L’Wren wanted a look that was strict, sophisticated and sexy but also a bit broken and disheveled, to keep it real,” said Aaron De Mey, the Lancôme artistic director for makeup, backstage at L’Wren Scott’s fall show. “I really liked the idea of creating an evening face for day: mysterious and a little messy.”
Read more…
Photo of the Moment | L’Wren Scott
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